engine noise knocking sound at 2600-3000rpm when cold !!?

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mathsmart

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is it normal when I start the car for the first minute or so at these rpm (2600 to 3000 aprox) I can clearly hear a knocking sound from the engine (like the valves or so)

its sound like a diesel car at these rpm :dodgy:
 
When cold(-20f) at idle around 2600 is loud.. definatly does not sound like a diesel though, no knocking on mine ( I will listen more close after work for knocking). I do find on my sedan, between 1500-2000 the engine gives off really odd vibration that is noticably shaking the vehicle.
 
I hear a vibration at 3000ish RPM, and I'm almost certain mine isn't engine noise, but cars make funny noises in the winter so I'll wait until it warms up a bit to get it looked at.

Is it a distinct engine noise?
 
its sound like valves clacking noise like an old 300 000 kms honda civic sohc :( or mabye sound like an injector...

the car only have 1400KMs !!!
 
Mine's got it too. When driving before the engine has totally warmed up, I get a lot of valve clatter between 2000 - 3000 rpms. I stopped in at my dealership and had them listen, they said it's normal. So, if it blows up, I'm covered. I think valve lash is a bit out-of-spec when the lifters are cold, because it's totally silent when hot.
 
CorsaKoup said:
Mine's got it too. When driving before the engine has totally warmed up, I get a lot of valve clatter between 2000 - 3000 rpms. I stopped in at my dealership and had them listen, they said it's normal. So, if it blows up, I'm covered. I think valve lash is a bit out-of-spec when the lifters are cold, because it's totally silent when hot.
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exacly like me its too silence when hot :D
 
I heard the engine noise(valve clatter, light knocking, clacking) from when the car was new, and reported it here and on other Kia forums. After so many other Forte owners responded that they were haering the same noises, I consider it normal. I plan to use 10w-30 oil to help offset this. It's an approved weight for the Forte, both engines.
 
I have noticed the same noise while the car is warming up. It does go away when it finally gets to operating temp.
 
Hi, I got the same noise. I contacted my dealer about it. In fact my car is at the garage now. They did a road test with it, and they heard it too. They'll keep the car for next 3 to 4 days. They told me that 1 liter of oil was missing. you probably have the same problem as me. I dont know yet what it is. And I'll give you update on it as soon as I have some. I'm pretty sure I got a lemon ! a new car that drinks 1 liter of oil after only 7 000 km...

I'm not happy !
 
my boss/service manager said, and i quote "its normal, all cars do that" and i know thats a load of BS... a new car shouldnt do that
 
Mine is the total opposite. It's quiet at first and then a loud ticking noise once it is warm. I know one of the techs at car pros and he says it's only injectors. Don't really believe that. Why wouldn't it be loud all the time. Anyways it will get ckecked out on my next service in about two weeks. Will let you know the verdict.
 
Kia1109 said:
I heard the engine noise(valve clatter, light knocking, clacking) from when the car was new, and reported it here and on other Kia forums. After so many other Forte owners responded that they were haering the same noises, I consider it normal. I plan to use 10w-30 oil to help offset this. It's an approved weight for the Forte, both engines.
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mschiavoni said:
my boss/service manager said, and i quote "its normal, all cars do that" and i know thats a load of BS... a new car shouldnt do that
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These are of the "World Engine" design from Hyundai, Misubishi, and Chrysler. My old Dodge Caliber did it, and everybody's did it. It's partly because of the CVVT, the tight tolerances, and the need for 5W20 oil. Switching to synthetic 5W20 will silence the issue. Do not go to a heavier weight oil! These engines have such tight tolerances that heavier weight oil will circulate to slowly causing insufficient lubrication. Granted the damage will be way down the road, but synthetic is best all around for an engine.

It's my feeling that these cars should come as "Synthetic Oil Only" cars.
 
Probably the knocking or ticking everyone is describing is coming from the cam followers...these engines do not use hydraulic lifters so there is some clearance that will not go away and you will hear noise -- just like solid lifter-equipped V-8 engines did in the past.
 
mschiavoni said:
they shouldnt need to be synthetic only...
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That is the case, but synthetic has so many benefits over conventional oil, and the prices are rapidly converging. You can buy a 5qt jug of Mobil 1 for $21 at Walmart.

In my book, the only thing conventional oil should be used for is to make fuel. With the benefits of using synthetic, such as better fuel economy, less engine wear, less emissions, and extended use; it just seems a no brainer. It would also reduce our need for foreign oil.

Something most people don't know is that if you take 5W20 oil as an example. Conventional oil starts as a 5 weight oil. Additives are what make act like a 20 at operating temps. That's why conventional oil gets thinner as it's used. Those additives breakdown. Synthetic on the other hand, starts as a 20 weight and additives are what make it a 5 weight at ambient temps.

So think about it. What would you prefer? An oil that slowly is getting thicker at ambient temps, or one that is slowly becoming as thin as water at operating temps?

Just something to think about.;)
 
mathsmart said:
is it normal when I start the car for the first minute or so at these rpm (2600 to 3000 aprox) I can clearly hear a knocking sound from the engine (like the valves or so)

its sound like a diesel car at these rpm :dodgy:
Click to expand...

the sound like tiktiktiktik.....form the hydraulic tappet valves?

Most probably its the motor oil...the viscosity is very low...

try to make it a little higher....

Please read:

Grades

The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) has established a numerical code system for grading motor oils according to their viscosity characteristics. SAE viscosity gradings include the following, from low to high viscosity: 0, 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 40, 50 or 60. The numbers 0, 5, 10, 15 and 25 are suffixed with the letter W, designating their "winter" (not "weight") or cold-start viscosity, at lower temperature. The number 20 comes with or without a W, depending on whether it is being used to denote a cold or hot viscosity grade. The document SAE J300 defines the viscometrics related to these grades.

Kinematic viscosity is graded by measuring the time it takes for a standard amount of oil to flow through a standard orifice, at standard temperatures. The longer it takes, the higher the viscosity and thus higher SAE code.

Note that the SAE has a separate viscosity rating system for gear, axle, and manual transmission oils, SAE J306, which should not be confused with engine oil viscosity. The higher numbers of a gear oil (eg 75W-140) do not mean that it has higher viscosity than an engine oil

Better consult your dealer for futrther advice...
 
So I took my car to the dealership for the knocking noise and my invoice reads, "Customer reports knock noise at idle. More when vehicle is warmed up
Fuel injectors tapping and evaporation purge valve tapping when engine is hot on operating temp 180 degrees
operating as designed"
 
desert fox said:
the sound like tiktiktiktik.....form the hydraulic tappet valves?

Most probably its the motor oil...the viscosity is very low...

try to make it a little higher....

Please read:

Grades

The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) has established a numerical code system for grading motor oils according to their viscosity characteristics. SAE viscosity gradings include the following, from low to high viscosity: 0, 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 40, 50 or 60. The numbers 0, 5, 10, 15 and 25 are suffixed with the letter W, designating their "winter" (not "weight") or cold-start viscosity, at lower temperature. The number 20 comes with or without a W, depending on whether it is being used to denote a cold or hot viscosity grade. The document SAE J300 defines the viscometrics related to these grades.

Kinematic viscosity is graded by measuring the time it takes for a standard amount of oil to flow through a standard orifice, at standard temperatures. The longer it takes, the higher the viscosity and thus higher SAE code.

Note that the SAE has a separate viscosity rating system for gear, axle, and manual transmission oils, SAE J306, which should not be confused with engine oil viscosity. The higher numbers of a gear oil (eg 75W-140) do not mean that it has higher viscosity than an engine oil

Better consult your dealer for futrther advice...
Click to expand...

Actually, that isn't an accurate (or full enough info to properly understand) take on it. Read this for a clearer understanding: http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/
 
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